Where is the leak coming from?
Finding the source decides everything. Dry the area, then watch where the water reappears.
| Leak location | Likely cause | Usually |
|---|---|---|
| Top of the tank, at the pipes | Loose or corroded fittings, dielectric unions, failed flex connectors | Repairable |
| Relief valve or its discharge pipe | Excess pressure, overheating, missing expansion tank or a worn valve | Repairable; find the cause |
| Drain valve near the bottom | Worn or plastic valve, debris in the seat | Repairable |
| Under the tank or from the jacket | Corroded inner tank or condensation | Usually replacement if it's the tank |
| Around the burner area (gas) | Condensation on cold starts, or a tank leak dripping onto the burner | Needs inspection |
Why the relief valve matters
The temperature and pressure relief valve (T&P valve) is the safety device that lets water out if the tank gets too hot or the pressure too high. A valve that drips now and then may just be worn. A valve that discharges often is telling you something: the thermostat may be overheating the water, or the home's plumbing may be a closed system without a working expansion tank. That's common when a pressure-reducing valve or backflow device is installed on the main line. Never cap or plug a relief valve. Have a pro find the reason it's opening.
Signs your tank is leaking, not just a fitting
- Water appears under the tank with dry fittings above
- Rust streaks running down the jacket
- Rusty or discolored hot water
- The unit is 10 or more years old
- Rumbling or popping from heavy sediment, which speeds tank corrosion
When the tank itself is leaking, it can't be patched. The next step is a water heater replacement. In the meantime, keep the cold supply off and the energy source off to limit damage.
How leak repair works
- Call us with your town and what you're seeing. We connect you with a local pro.
- Diagnosis. The technician dries and inspects the unit, checks water pressure and tests the relief valve.
- Repair or recommendation. Fittings, connectors, drain valves and relief valves are usually replaced the same visit when the parts are on the truck. If the tank is failing, you'll get a replacement quote.
- Prevention. Ask about an expansion tank, a pressure check and a drain pan with a leak sensor if the heater sits over a finished space.
Leaks and Connecticut basements
Most Connecticut water heaters sit in basements, so a slow leak can go unnoticed for weeks and quietly damage stored belongings, framing and finished walls. Hard or iron-heavy well water, common in rural towns like Coventry, Redding and Woodstock, speeds corrosion around fittings and the tank. In older city homes in New Haven or Bristol, mixed galvanized and copper connections are a frequent leak point.
Leak repair is one of the most common jobs behind water heater repair across Connecticut. If the leak comes with no hot water, also read our emergency repair steps.
Frequently asked questions
Can a leaking water heater be repaired?
It depends on the source. Leaks from fittings, connectors, the drain valve or the relief valve are usually repairable. If water is coming from the tank itself, the tank has corroded through and needs replacing.
Why is water coming out of my water heater's relief valve?
The relief valve opens when temperature or pressure is too high. Common causes are a faulty thermostat, high household water pressure or a closed plumbing system without a working expansion tank. A pro should find and fix the cause rather than just replacing the valve.
Is it normal for a gas water heater to drip when it starts?
A little condensation dripping onto the burner when a tank fills with cold water can be normal and should stop once the water warms up. Steady dripping is not normal and should be checked.
What should I do first if my water heater is leaking?
Shut off the cold water valve above the tank, switch off the breaker or turn the gas control to off, and move belongings away from the water. Then call to have it inspected.